Posted on January 18 2017
Good morning Gents! Ever wonder why some suit jackets or sport coats last much longer than others ? Not just longevity, but have you ever wondered why some feel and look so much better on ? Part of the reasoning can be found int he internal process of canvassing. Your sport coat or suit jacket canvass is the internal structure that maintains the garment's shape. In this post, we will learn between the two types of canvassing process. Enjoy !! - TB
Inside every proper suit jacket or sport coat, between the exterior cloth and the lining, lies the secret of its shape : a layer of cloth called the canvas.
Hand Sewn Canvas
A bespoke suit or a top end ready to wear design features what's known as a full-hand canvas which is sewn into the jacket by hand, stitch by stitch, so that it echoes the curves of the chest, gives the lapel its roll, and in a sense, determines the very integrity of the jacket.
Cheaper brands however, use a process called fusing, in which a synthetic interlining is heated by machine until it adheres to the exterior fabric and provides the jacket with its rudimentary shape. Until you're caught in a rainstorm, that it, when the glue dissolves, leaving blistering bubbles on the chest and lapels. Although fusing has long been deemed inferior to hand canvasing, this is no longer universally so. Improvements in fusing technology has made it possible to create fused suits that fit better than some canvased ones.
How to Tell
Pinch an inch of the jacket's fabric, preferably between the bottom two buttonholes. If you feel only two layers, that means the jacket is fused: You will feel only the exterior and the inner facing. If you feel three layers, that means the jacket it canvased, and what your sensing is the canvas itself floating in between. If after performing this test, you're still not sure, ask the salesman. If he doesn't know what you're talking about, your probably in the wrong store!
The best investments are the ones that keep you informed.